What Are Wine Sulfites, Really?
Let’s get one thing straight right off the bat: sulfites are not the shadowy villains they’re often made out to be. As someone who’s tasted thousands of wines across continents and worked hands-on with winemakers in Napa, Oregon, and yes, even cold-climate Alaska, I’ve seen firsthand how misunderstood this topic is—both in tasting rooms and dinner conversations.
So what are sulfites? Scientifically speaking, “sulfites” refer to sulfur dioxide (SO₂) and related compounds used in winemaking to preserve freshness, prevent oxidation, and inhibit undesirable bacteria or wild yeast. They’re a kind of insurance policy for your bottle of wine.
But, before you start imagining test tubes or lab coats, keep in mind: sulfites are as traditional in winemaking as the oak barrel. The Romans were already using sulfur to sanitize amphorae well before modern winemaking existed.
Why Do Winemakers Use Sulfites?
Sulfites have three primary roles in wine:
- Preservation: They slow down oxidation, which is crucial for maintaining the wine’s color, aroma, and flavor during aging or transport.
- Microbial Protection: Sulfites help prevent spoilage caused by wild yeast, bacteria, or Brettanomyces (a funky yeast with strong opinions, shall we say).
- Stability: They allow winemakers more control over the fermentation process and the final product—especially important for bottling consistency in commercial production.
I once worked with a winemaker in Willamette Valley who produced two barrels of Pinot Noir—one with sulfites, one without. After six months, the sulfite-free batch had turned cloudy, oxidized, and developed off-putting aromas. The sulfite-protected wine? Vibrant, ruby-colored, and alive with red cherry and forest floor complexity. The difference was night and day.
How Much Sulfite Is in Your Wine?
The FDA requires that any wine containing more than 10 parts per million (ppm) of sulfites be labeled with a “Contains Sulfites” warning. For perspective, most commercial wines fall between 30-150 ppm. The legal maximum in the United States is 350 ppm, though very few wines approach that level.
Here’s something interesting: dried fruits contain far more sulfites than wine. A handful of dried apricots can have around 500-1000 ppm. Yet nobody leaves a picnic blaming the apricots for their headache.
Do Sulfites Cause Headaches?
This is the million-dollar question. The short answer? Not likely.
Despite popular belief, scientific evidence linking sulfites to wine headaches is weak. In fact, the FDA estimates that less than 1% of the population is allergic to sulfites. For those individuals, the reaction tends to be respiratory rather than neurological—think hives, wheezing, or asthma symptoms rather than a pounding headache.
So what’s really behind your “wine headache”? It could be dehydration, tannins, histamines (more prevalent in red wine), or simply overindulgence. The next time you’re tempted to blame sulfites, check your water intake and your pour size first.
Are Sulfite-Free Wines Better?
Sulfite-free—or more accurately, “no-sulfites-added”—wines have become trendy in natural wine circles. These wines can be earthy, expressive, and definitely worth exploring, especially if you’re into unfiltered, experimental bottlings. But they’re not inherently “better” than sulfite-stabilized wines.
I once tasted a natural GSM blend in a Brooklyn wine bar—funky, wild, full of sediment, and undeniably alive. It was compelling, but not exactly what I’d serve at a formal dinner. Like jazz vs. classical, it’s not about superiority, but about style and intention.
That said, without any sulfites, wines must be handled meticulously from vine to bottle: ultra-clean facilities, cold chain logistics, and fast consumption. Most have shorter shelf lives and are more susceptible to spoilage. If you’re going natural, buy from producers who really know what they’re doing, and store the bottle properly.
How to Know If You’re Sensitive to Sulfites
If you suspect a sensitivity, the first step is to consult a physician. Sulfite sensitivity is more common in people with asthma, but it’s still relatively rare. In most cases, people attributing their symptoms to sulfites may in fact be reacting to:
- Alcohol content
- Histamines (particularly in red wine)
- Congeners (other fermentation byproducts)
- Tyramine (a naturally occurring compound in aged foods)
Want to test it yourself? Try drinking a well-made white wine like a Sancerre or Riesling with lower histamine and tannin content but similar sulfite levels to red wine. If the headache doesn’t follow, sulfites probably aren’t your nemesis.
Can You Remove Sulfites from Wine?
There are wine gadgets on the market claiming to “remove sulfites”—filters, droplets, even stirring wands. Most work by either oxidation or binding sulfites to another compound, making them inactive. That said, these tools can also alter the wine’s texture, aroma, or longevity.
Another approach is simply choosing low-sulfite wines. Look for these terms on the label:
- « No added sulfites » (NAS): Wines without any sulfites added during production.
- « Contains sulfites »: Still may be relatively low, just over the 10 ppm threshold.
- Certified organic: In the U.S., certified organic wines cannot contain added sulfites.
- “Made with organic grapes”: Can contain sulfites, but often at lower levels.
Just remember: low sulfites aren’t always better—they just require you to drink the wine fresher and store it more carefully. Pop open that bottle and enjoy it in the moment. Wine, after all, is meant to be shared, not shelved indefinitely.
Winemaking Practices and Sulfite Use
As a former sommelier turned winery consultant, I’ve seen dozens of sulfite regimes in action, from industrial-scale automated dosing to hands-on gravity-fed cellars. The key is balance. Too much sulfite, and you risk muting a wine’s character; too little, and you jeopardize stability.
Here’s how thoughtful winemakers manage sulfites at various stages:
- Pre-fermentation: Small doses can suppress wild microbes before inoculating with desired yeast.
- Post-fermentation: Sulfites are added after primary and sometimes malolactic fermentation to preserve freshness.
- Bottling: A final adjustment ensures that the wine can withstand travel, shelf time, and varying storage conditions.
At Denali Winery, for example (yes, I’ve consulted with Arctic vintners too!), they use micro-dose sulfiting combined with cold stabilization due to the challenges of long-distance shipping and extreme seasonal shifts. It’s a smart mix of science and terroir management.
The Final Sip
Sulfites in wine aren’t something to fear—they’re something to understand. Like garlic in cooking, it’s not about eliminating it entirely, but using just the right amount, at the right time, for the right purpose.
So the next time someone pushes a glass across the table and says, “I can’t do red wine—sulfites give me headaches,” you’ll have the knowledge to respond with grace, a smile, and maybe even a well-paired Riesling to prove the point. After all, wine is as much about sharing knowledge as it is about sharing a bottle. Cheers.
